Shimsize Made Easy for the Suzuki XN85 turbo

This tool replaces the tabels you see in manuals regarding what shimsize to use.
The first choise was made when you choose your model,
Next comes your driving style.
Then the harder part starts, measured play and the size of the shim. (the smarter people amongst us have those figures written down on a piece of paper from last time, and are able to find that piece of paper)
If you are doing this after some headwork, remember that the first rotation of the cranck usually doesn't give exact figures since the cup and shim is not pressed in place yet.

If you see N.A. it means the size shim required is Not Available, either you entered one or more incorrect sizes.
If that's not the case you need to redo some valves.
Shims are available from 2.00 mm until about 3.20 mm in increments of 0.05 mm.

You´re more into inches, miles and other non-metric stuff ?

As all of you can figure, using this tool is at own risk. I've included the new play, so you can check for yourself. But checking your valves is a accurate job and there is some "feeling". Like try to keep the free play between cylinders low, even if that means you have to take a shim higher or lower than advised. After 3 nights of thinking & writing together with WayPay it seems to be is working, but there is an anomaly in the rounding procedure.

For every bike there is a different procedure how to set the best play, herebelow you see how it *should* be done on a Kawasaki 650-750cc You have to lign up the T 1-4 marker with the fixed point, to check 2 out of 4 exhaust valves, then you have to aling the T marker for the intake valves. You need 2 full rotations to check all 8 valves! I've found other methods too, but this is the factory way, and because of the way your cams are made it's the best way to check the valve clearance. the result is that you are measuring one cam when pointing upwards and one backward (forward for intake valves) I've made measurements with all cams upwards or backwards, and the difference is minimal, but i've heard other things from users, so stick with the factory procedure. For the people that are in for some other way of measuring the system try this: If you put the cranck on the 'T1-4' mark (remove ignition cover rotate, using the large bolt, clockwise) Measure the 2 out and the 2 in cam that are 'up' or backwards pointed (see picture) rotate to T2-3 for the next 2 intake and exhaust play. If you have loosened the chain tensioner and measure, you'll see it is correct +/- 0.01 mm. I think that this is acceptable, but it's naturally preferrable to use the factory method. When loosening the cams for changing shims take care to loosen the bolts evenly, and loosen the ones near the cam that is pointing down as the latest in the sequence.