Fuel Cut Defencer (Eliminate 12.5 boost Limit)


This unit is used at your own risk!!! Designed by Darrin "mrgoodvibes" Weber


This is a list of parts you will need, they can be obtained at Radio Shack for the most part if not look in your phone book and start calling electrical suppliers for small circuits. This unit will only cost you about $20 to make with parts to spare.

DOWN LOAD THE IMAGES HERE FOR THE PRINTOUT OF THE BOARD


Get some Glossy Photo paper from Wal-Mart or your other favorite store.

Get a Printed Circuit Board Design Kit.

You will need two 1N4001 Diode.

You will need one 1N4148 Diode.

You will need one 680 Ohms Resistor.

You will need one 0.01uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor.

You will need one 8 port IC Socket.

 

You will nee one LM358N-6 chip (fits in the IC Socket).

Or if you can't get the LM358N-6 chip you can buy the NTE928M chip (one costs as much as a 6 pack of LM chips)

You will need one 10k-Ohm Micro-Size Potentiometer (Trimmer).

You will need one Project Enclosure.

Take your print out from a laser printer (has to be laser because you need the toner, if you don't own one go to a print shop like Kinko's).

Insert the print out and board in between a folded peace of paper so you can iron on the circuit print out. You only have to hold it there for like 30-45 seconds.

Well this is up to you either soak it in water for a long time or hold it under running water and try to peel it off. I figured out a big secret on my second board. Try to peel it off ASAP after you iron it and like 98% comes off without water. If you let it cool it is much harder to remove.

This is what it looks like if you do it correctly or not with the iron etc... Now your kit comes with a permanent marker you can use it here to touch up the board.

See how it looks after touch up. Now poor the Etchant Solution into a plastic container and let the board soak in it for like 5 minutes, then check it. You might have to soak it more than once but dot not let it sit for hours or over night because even the toner and marker will eventually give and you will be starting over.

Now here is where it gets good because you need a steady hand. Take a drilled printout of the board and tape it to the project. Make sure you line it up and now you have a guide, be careful as some of your circuits are not fat and you can slip and cause them damage.

This is what it should look like, hold it up to a light to see the holes.

I took and inserted all the circuits into the board, look at the layout the circuits go in a certain direction. See the stripes on each little resistor and such the either aim left or right. Make sure you have them correctly placed.

Once you have soldiered on all the circuits you can cut the excess stems off.

This is what you should have before installing the actual wires for the harness.

Now get the wires you need and make them from 36 to 48 inches long. You will be mounting this bad boy in the front fairing with the other gizmo's. See the color of wires this is how your board should look. The the far left green wire goes to the Manifold Sensor (w/g wire). The green wire on the right goes to the Harness (w/g wire). I installed a male/female connectors here. You "do not" have to cut any wires on your bike to install this unit!!!

This is how they look installed. I took a small screw driver or you can use something else to release the catch lever in the connector so I could remove the w/g wire. Each end has a male/female and I taped them after connecting them. The yellow wire goes to the w/r but I did not splice it I just opened the clamp on the wire and retightened it with the yellow wire. The red and black wire from your project go to your battery  and ground or other desired power supply.

I then used some ties to secure it to my Fairing Bracket.

To calibrate it is easy you don't even need an air pump, because one your boost gauge won't work anymore. You can use it to set the unit just turn the trimmer left (counter clockwise) until the boost gauge is full. If the bike doesn't start you have it turned to far to the right. You will need a aftermarket boost gauge to read up to 35 psi. This will be another how-to install. You will also need to install a dial a boost to adjust the new found power, this is in the how-to's section.